That moment when you no longer need a construction ladder to get from your first floor to your loft is a special one. I had that moment today. I built a set of custom designed stairs. The stairs were designed to operate in a very tight space and are modeled after the circular staircases I’m so fond of. I wanted the stairs to be able to do double duty as storage while also taking up a minimal footprint.
Seeing as the stairs will be located right in front of my son’s bedroom I needed a two “step” ;approach to the stair design. Ladders are great in tiny house design because they take up so little space. Stairs are great because they make getting up and down from the loft a lot easier. I am limited on floor space but still have a desire to make it easy to get up and down for when my son gets a bit older and wants to go up to the loft. I need the tiny house stairs to be part stairs and part ladder! So I started in on the design.
I took my measurements (89″ from floor to loft and 40″ wide) and sketched out the below tiny house stairs design:
Now that I had the sketched out plans I had to start researching how I’d build said tiny house stairs. This is when I started thinking heavily about cabinet joinery…or how I’d join the edges. Many of the techniques require complex cuts, super precise measurements/cuts, and lots of steps and time. Then I remembered I had a Kreg Jig pocket hole system sitting in my garage. A pocket hole system is a very simple system. Basically you drill a few holes using a special jig and a clamp (I used a single handed clamp) set at the correct depth for the wood (I used 3/4″ thick cabinet grade plywood). Then you screw it together using pocket screws and follow it up by covering up the pocket hole (that you drilled) with wood putty. Sand and stain/paint and you are done.
It sounds pretty simple….because it is. Measure your cuts, drill, screw, sand, and stain/paint. There really isn’t much more to a Kreg Jig cabinet joinery system. Below is the end result of the planning and hard work. The only thing I added to the design was some 2×2’s as front face framing (seen in the last two pictures). While most Tiny Houser’s will run up and down these with no issues I’m 6′ 3″ and 225 lbs…so I need sturdy. After the extra 2×2’s were added to the face frame for support there is zero flex even when I walk up.